For the next installment of our Chef en Residencia series, Chef Claudette Zepeda takes us to the Chihuahua–Texas borderlands with a dish she grew up eating: bistec con papas. Her mom's version was the kind of hearty, comforting guisado that could feed the family for days, served in one pan with tender beef, potatoes, and a deeply savory sauce, all topped with melted cheese. But the real star here isn't the steak or the potatoes. It's the chile. Unlike most dried chiles, which are dried straight from fresh, chile "pasado" is a chile that's past its prime. It begins as a fresh chilaca chile that's charred, peeled, and then dried, for a real depth of flavor and meaty texture. Simmered with tomatoes, onions, and beef, it's the kind of meal that tastes even better the next day. Serve it with warm corn or flour tortillas, and don't be surprised if it becomes part of your regular rotation.
For more recipes like this, check out Claudette's cookbook, Cooking the Borderlands.
Reprinted with permission from Cooking the Borderlands: Spice and Smoke Between Mexico and the States by Claudette Zepeda. Copyright © 2026 by Claudette Zepeda. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.
